The Guide to Rediscovering Hong Kong in 2023

Tai Hang

Locals have loved Tai Hang’s narrow streets, three-story walk-ups, and neighborhood charm for a long time. But recent years have transformed Hong Kong’s social scene, turning Tai Hang into a hub for artists. Here you’ll find more intimate events, like the block parties hosted by Japanese Bar TOMO, which feature silent discos and market stall pop-ups from local artisans and designers. 

On Sun Chun Street is The Plant Of Devil 魔界植物, a greenhouse for hellishly-shaped succulents, bonsai, and other plants to take home. They carry goods from Madagascar and Africa alongside the owner’s personal collection of exotic reptiles and insects like tarantulas, beetles, frogs, and a pet snake. There’s also their Bull Terrier Pak Kiu, who sits in the store with walls lined by ceramics of devil heads and dark terrariums. Their prickly cacti and bulbous bonsais come in odd shapes and sizes that are like artworks of intentional design. It matches the artistic style of Tai Hang that has drawn in crowds of young creatives, artists, and musicians who now live in the area.

Wan Chai

A short walk into the hillside enclave of Wan Chai is the historic Blue House on Stone Nullah Lane, an early 1920s colonial block painted with blue shutters and white balconies in front. Out back, the apartment house looks over a tree-shaded courtyard. The heritage building runs cultural and educational programs pushing forward the city’s rich history. On the ground floor are two social enterprises—GroundWorks 土作坊 and Hong Kong House of Stories—which aim to provide work opportunities to women and the elderly, and community programs like exhibitions, workshops, and guided tours that take you through the stories and communities that have lived behind their fabled yard for generations. Their latest revitalization of the space is Viva Blue House Good Neighbour, a co-living venture where renters of the Blue House contribute to the building’s programs and neighborhood initiatives, whether a home renter or shop owner. 

Across the block are Sun and Moon Streets and St. Francis Yard, where you can find local retailers LANE EIGHT, Kapok, and WOAW Gallery. 

Lamma Island

After a visit to the city center, do like a local and go to Hong Kong’s outlying islands via ferry from the Central Piers. A new addition to Lamma Island is The Beer Shack, the first taproom by local brewers The Yardley Brothers. The craft beer shop started as a takeaway stall on the beach before building a permanent bar off Lamma’s main street. 

They’re known for their funky beer names and bottle illustrations of Hong Kong’s famous landmarks. The place also has live music, movie nights, board games, and barbecue on any given day. You can find their beers all around Hong Kong but their shop stocks limited edition releases on tap among an ever-growing list of other drinks from the local scene like Dragon Water hard seltzer, Taboocha kombucha, and Carbon Brews. 

Further afield, at the littlest island, Peng Chau, look for Chill Chill Country, a handmade goods store for crystals, incense, and espresso with its own craft brew in collaboration with Gradient Brewery.

Kowloon Walled City

A more quiet trek is Kowloon Walled City Park, where memories of the 15th Century are given homage through Qing Dynasty era architecture and serene gardens, perfect for tai chi. It used to be the site of densely populated apartment blocks that were demolished in 1993. When you enter the park, you’ll see a scaled-down sculpture of the apartments, depicting the area’s history. The park is also replete with maps, pebble walking paths, and preserved archaeological remains. A 10-minute walk away is San Po Kong, a mostly industrial district not often visited by tourists but worth a look for a short strip of very local restaurants on Yan Oi Street. 

Sham Shui Po

When Hong Kong abruptly shut its borders, residents took to the country parks to find respite in hikes, camping, and beaches. Moving the lifestyle indoors is Sheung Shan 尚山岩舘, an indoor bouldering and climbing gym, in Sham Shui Po. Here, a friendly community of urban hikers, climbers, and adventure seekers go ‘til late. While there, ask around for night hikes, coasteering tours, or outdoor adventure WhatsApp groups like HKOutsider, which organize excursions weekly.

Mong Kok

As Mong Kok comes alive at night, on Peace Avenue is a new edition in C.R.E.A.M.Family. Founded by a group of street artists, the store features local streetwear brands and sells specialty spray paint cans, custom jewelry, and artworks that never made it to gallery shows. This includes labels like Studio BSB, Yeti Out, Eggshell Stickers, and Wrong Kong, which you’ll spot around town on shirts, posted on public walls, and at raves. 

End your night at 女人街食飯公司 Ladies Street Sik Faan Co., a dai pai dong-style restaurant off Tung Choi Street Ladies’ Market. The casual diner serves authentic Cantonese cuisine with a few fusion twists like prawn toast topped with black truffle, as well as classics like claypot rice, curry squid, and seasonal shellfish. Buzzing with noise once you exit the elevator, neon signage lights up the off-white tiles, vinyl wood tables, and red leather chairs. Adding to the nostalgia are the traditional street menus and Blue Girl Beer servers pouring the regional brew in blue-trimmed China bowls.

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This article is supported by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. VICE retains complete editorial autonomy.