Waikiki is losing something immeasurable with the closure of Wailana. Here are a few stories from those who knew the restaurant best:Ian Stanley (professional body piercer and modification artist)After already deciding on a school, my mom went to Wailana for a college interview and it changed her mind on where to go. She met my dad at college, so without Wailana, I wouldn’t exist."We’d be wearing wigs and costumes that were falling apart and by the time dinner was done, we’d be practically naked, trying to cover ourselves with whatever leftover clothes we had because we didn’t want to change, we just wanted to eat."
We had all kinds of strange guests. We used to have this couple—they came in almost every night wearing suits and dresses in matching colors like they were going to prom. One regular always kept buying me stuff, like cartons of my [favorite] brand of cigarettes. One guy gave me a [cassette] tape and told me to practice my singing, then he was going to hire me in Japan. On the tape, it was all old Japanese love songs like “Sukiyaki.”"Another time, a guy came in and gave the keys to his car to a waitress for a tip. It was parked outside, it was a convertible. She took it."
I’ve sat in this seat every Tuesday and Thursday for the past three years to hear the music. People may come and sit down in this seat but as soon as it’s 5 o’clock, the bartender tells them to get up, because that’s my seat."Look at that turtle shell on the wall. You don’t see things like that in places anymore. I grew up near Chinaman’s Hat [near Kaneohe on Oahu] and I remember people catching turtles and making turtle steak on the grill and taking off the shell."
We’d go to Wailana from clubs like Pink Cadillac, Fusion, or the Wave Waikiki. Tuesday night it was goth night or something. One night it was the college band night. But Monday nights were big because we used to have the dance concert at the Wave. Whoever won the contest that night, we’d go out and eat and that person would treat people to breakfast or whatever, because people won either $100 to $500. Always Wailana. Never Zippy’s.Jade and the other waitresses were always excited when we would come in because they knew me and a couple of the other girls in drag. There was this waitress called Mary. And in the mahu lingo, “mary” is such a popular local term of endearment. So the waitress would always think everybody was calling [for] her, but it was never the case.On my 30th birthday, we went to Wailana at, like, 8 o’clock in the morning and started with the all-you-can-eat pancake breakfast. And we had two trolleys lined up outside, ready to take us on a tour. And then the tour ended up back at Wailana and we did karaoke at the cocktail lounge at 9 o’clock that night. Another time, I remember being in there the night before the Great Aloha Run and all the Japanese tourists would be there, carbo loading with these big marathon spaghetti dinners. At Wailana, there were always military boys and drag queens and all kinds, but everybody was very open and loving. There would be the occasional scuffle but there wasn’t too much drama. The vibe was good.Kenton Tom (Wailana co-owner):When we announced that Wailana was closing, the restaurant began getting lots of letters and phone calls from people telling me how much they liked the place and how they remembered the early times here and how they spent their vacations here. It’s amazing; I don’t think the popularity of the place was something we realized quite so much.One of the reasons I think Wailana was so successful is because we’re in what’s considered the edge of Waikiki. The center of Waikiki is closer to the Sheraton, the Royal Hawaiian, the Outrigger. So we’re close enough to the tourists but not as congested for local people. One misconception tourists have, though, is that because our sign says “coffee house,” they think we’re like a Starbucks. And we’re completely the opposite of that. We don’t have a huge advertising budget like Denny’s or IHOP, but when visitors see a lot of local people coming in, that’s the best advertising.Many of our employees are long-term relationships because many of them have worked here 20, 25 years. I started working here in 1977, but I never thought about taking over the [family] restaurant. My brother and my sister both had their own careers and they came back to Wailana after their careers. I majored in business and had an accounting degree, I was planning to work in New York City. But I’m glad I didn’t.Francis J. Tom (Wailana co-founder, from a letter in the menu):Dear Customer:I am glad you’re here. Thank you for coming. We want you to feel welcomed and cared for from the time you enter until the time you leave. Everyone who comes to Wailana is special. Assuring your dining pleasure and comfort is a profound responsibility we at Wailana take seriously. We will be alert and unsparing in our efforts to please you with food of good flavor, service that touches you personally, and full value for your dollar.The acceptance and success of our first Wailana, opened in 1970 on Ala Moana, is gratifying. We will continue to work hard and smart to keep your trust. Please come back—thank you."At Wailana, there were always military boys and drag queens and all kinds, but everybody was very open and loving."
As told to James Charisma (except for the letter). Interviews have been edited for content and clarity.